i'm glad you liked them
it was definitely one of the most significant experiences of my life, that's for sure. and i consider myself so fortunate to have been able to go! it was awesome to share it with josh and our new traveling family hehe
as far as the wallet incident, i was pickpocketed on the subway. actually, josh and i both were. it was the morning we got back to rome from venice, friday i believe . . . the night before was when we were all drunk and rowdy, so we passed out pretty hardcore and didn't realize we had reached rome until the train conducter or whatever what pounding on our room door telling us to be off the train in two minutes. so we were scrambling to get ready and get off the train, so instead of taking time to make sure all our things were properly situated, we just kind of threw ourselves together, meaning josh put his wallet in his back pocket in his hurry, and i just tossed my travel purse over my shoulder on TOP of my coat instead of underneath it like it usually was. so we get to the subway and it's morning commute time, so we are squeezed on the train with about a bajillion romans, and i guess josh felt his wallet being taken out of his back pocket and actually went after the guy. it was so funny; we're just standing there waiting for the doors to close so we can be on our way and josh all of a sudden disappears off the train--we had no idea what was going on. so anyway, he jumps back on the train right before the doors close and tells us "that fucker took my wallet!!" but luckily he realized it and went after the guy and made him give it back. so then i'm thinking omg i hope he didn't get mine (because i had WAY more money on me--about 200 euro AND a credit card AND a debit card) . . . i looked down at my little travel purse, saw the zipper was unzipped, and my heart just sank. i said "did you happen to get my wallet back, too?" and totally started crying hahaha . . . as soon as we got off the subway, we hit up an internet cafe to shut off my cards. luckily we still had josh's card (even though he only had about 10 euro in cash on him) but it wasn't ideal, since his card has a $300 a day spending limit, which, given the current exchange rate, doesn't go far. but i considered us very fortunate that both wallets didn't go missing. we just wish the guy had gotten away with josh's and not mine haha
anyway, bill and kevin (the guys we were traveling with) were both *so* generous with us. they picked up tabs for dinner and paid for our last hotel room, and kevin even gave me a little bit of spending money so i could still get my tattoo hehe . . . all in all, it was a shitty thing to have happen, but we're fortunate that it was just one wallet instead of two (or three or four, even!!) and that our companions were so kind and generous.
as for language, none of us knew more than 9 or 10 words of italian, but rome and venice are such hot tourist spots that we had no problem whatsoever making our way through. i was a little concerned about finding and communicating with a tattoo artist, but the guy i found spoke great english and did a wonderful job.
it was an amazing trip :D